North Kerala- Malabar-Thalaserry.

North Kerala- Malabar. 

Drive down Muzhapilangadu beach.

Kerala is a very small state and it is in the Global Map as a destination that one should not miss in his/her lifetime. I hail from Kerala and that too from south Kerala. Today the tourists come mostly to South Kerala with Kumarakom as a huge magnet attracting people from far and wide with their kettu vellams, houseboats etc. These guys have transformed my hometown Alleppey into another Venice. We as kids, spending the summer holidays at Alleppey saw only the mosquitoes and the “elephantiasis” an affliction that bloated the legs of the human beings. This disease caused by the mosquitoes created an egalitarian society and never distinguished between the high and low .  Sreedharan, who came to our house to clear wild growing grass and my Grandfather, number 1 lawyer in that town,  both were the “beneficiaries” of this curse.

At the confluence of the twin rivers and the Sea.

Interesting, that many of the tourists are blissfully unaware of less crowded and unspoilt beauty of North Kerala or “Malabar”. In my memory, I can recall only one person, a non Keralite, who has fallen head over heels in love with Wyanad, part of Malabar. He is Dr Lloyd who has made it a habit to go there, only there, year after year for his vacations. Well, that’s a different story, which will be told at an appropriate time.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malabar_region

In my blog, I plan to cover some lesser-known jewels of Malabar where I had the fortune of visiting by road along with my family.

A few points about Malabar.

1.     Not as crowded as South Kerala.

2.     Beaches are Spartan .

3.     Fairly good roads.

4.     Get used to the big fat and red rice of Kerala. It is tasty and healthy. We seem to be proud in adjusting to “Chinese- Chinese” food when we go east. Why not the ‘puzhungal ari ( boiled rice)“ from God’s own country?

5.     Vegetarians will have challenges. Grab Parippu vada  ( vada made out of Bengal gram), Pazhampori (  Kerala banana dipped in batter and shallow fried ) and Kattanchaya( black tea) whenever u see them. Pls do remember that these are available in ordinary teashops only. Other option, for lunch atleast, is to go to a temple and have food at “Ootuparai”(food served for general public).

6.     Ofcourse, Kerala temples will have their strict dress regulations, which need to be followed in the ootuparai also.

7.     Pathiri is another food item veggies can try. The problem will be the  accompaniments since they will be mostly non veg only.

Thalaserry:

Kerala is essentially known by its 2 cities. Thiruvananthapuram  and Kochi. To a lesser extent Kozhikode  ( Calicut- thanks to Vasco) and Palghat  in North. Thalaserry is north of  Kozhikode right on the coast, just next to Mahe, part of Puduchery State. The Anglicized name for the town is Tellicherry . 

 I am sure that many of you don’t know some of the unique features of this beautiful little town.

1.     Known as City of 3 Cs. Circus, Cake and Cricket.

2.     Cricket, in India, was first played at Thalaserry. It was Sir Arthur Wellesley (he was an ordinary Colonel at that time) who introduced that this town. This was in the year 1790 and Kolkata saw the first willow only in 1860 only. First Cricket club in India was formed in this town.

3.     The youngest player to appear in a match at Lords , Sir Colin Cowdrey who played  when he was 13 ( poor Tendulkar- he missed that record and cannot aspire for it now  J) played his early cricket at this town. Colin Cowdrey subsequently became a legend of world cricket. His father was a tea planter at this town and laid the first cricket pitch.

4.     One of the first bakeries of India was established in this town.

5.     The  town is 54 kms north of Kaapad beach where Vasco-da-Gama landed.

6.     This town is the birthplace of Indian Circus. Centre from where Theyyam and Kalari Payattu spread across Kerala.

7.     One of the earliest printing presses in India was established here.

8.     It has the only beach in India – 4 kms long- where you can drive a car on the beach without getting stuck.

9.     The first NTTF was established here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thalassery

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Points to be noted when you are at this town.

1.     Mahe is a couple of kms away from Thalaserry and is an union territory administered by Pondicherry. Petrol is cheaper by Rs 4 per litre.  Obviously liquor also. Mahe is a small town and every alternate shop is either a petrol bunk or a liquor vend. J

2.     Thalaserry is well connected by roads and train. From Bangalore the best route will be via Mysore, Sultan battery and Vaithri. Don't get into Mysore and take the bypass to Nanjangudu and Gundulpet. If you have the time, pls visit the beautiful Shiva temple at Nanjangudu, really worth a visit for its sculptures and the famous "sultan lingam". From Gundulpet , for the next 40 kms or so, it is via beautiful forests. If u r lucky u can see some wild animals also. Just before Sultan battery pls stop and have a look at the giant bamboos . 
  During my vist, I stayed with a relative of mine and hence not in a position to comment on hotels.

3.     Like many other Kerala towns, Thalaserry has a few vegetarian restaurants only and the food that is available may not appeal to the palate of a non-Keralite. But can be managed without much of an issue.

4.     Don’t miss to drive on the Muzhapilangadu beach. You cannot get it anywhere else in India.

Afternoon view at the Confluence.

5.     It is a great sight from Overbury’s folly, a seaside promenade. A must visit. French, British and Dutch plus several Indian Kings ruled Thalaserry. A slow drive around the city will give you ample evidence of the cultural “pot-poure”.

6.     Please go to the confluence of Anjanakandi and Thalaserry rivers as they meet the sea. It is a visual treat especially when there is high tide in the sea.

7.     I don’t have too many photos to share except that of Muzhapilangad beach. I was using my Honda City during this trip.

8.     Pls go around the cricket stadium. It is as venerable as Lords Cricket Ground.

9.     Apart from cakes, please do not miss out Cashew Macroons. They are delicious.