Ahoy- KARNATAKA.
That’s how we, me and my daughter, named our
December vacation this year.
Originally
was planning to cover the Coastal AP till Vizag. Andhra became Seemandhra and
plans also underwent a change. Loss for AP became a gain for Karnataka. We decided to
explore the known and unknown facets of our own Karnataka.
Goa was
added subsequently due to 2 reasons. One, my daughter will be happy- she thinks
that Goa was the paradise created by GOD and two, it would give me an opportunity to meet a “long lost” friend
of mine who is currently based at Vasco.
And,
finally, a trip to Goa by road pays for itself. Petrol over there costs Rs 20
per litre cheaper than Karnataka. Crazy, but, true.
We decided
to balance the trip so that all interests are served. Hampi for Hindu
sculptures, Bijapur for Muslim Architecture, Dandeli for nature, Karwar for my
favourite- beaches and Goa for pleasure and friendship. Hampi was also covered
since in all discussions when the topic veered around Hampi it was considered
as a sacrilege for having been in Karnataka and not seen the venerable world
heritage site. Could not accommodate Badami, Patadkal etc since they would have
been extensions of Hampi and that would become an overkill of Hindu sculptures.
.
Thanks to
the “diversified “itinerary, it became a 10 days trip. Kamala was not very
happy since it meant a long break from her home, Cothas coffee and German
language. Added to that was the “treachery” by IGNOU, who suddenly, without much of a notice, decided to hold
their exams in German teaching immediately after Christmas.
My plans for the vacation were as follows.
1. Day 1- Reach Hospet. Stay for 3 nights.
2. Day 2- Hampi sightseeing.
3. Day 3- Hampi plus Doroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary and TB Dam.
4. Day 4- Bijapur. Stay over there.
5. Day 5- Reach Gund village in DATR (Dandeli Anshi Tiger Reserve). Stay
at Dandeli Amara Home stay.
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| My Companion and faithful |
7. Day 7- Reach Karwar- Stay at Emerald Bay.
8. Day 8- Goa and Back.
9. Day 9- Trip to Kurumgad Island- Karwar.
10. Day 10- Karwar to Bangalore.
My mode of transport was obviously my Honda
Accord- well serviced under the supervision of Sunil of Elite Automobiles. A
decent horn was fitted by Sai Bosch Service.
To reiterate some of the salient points from my earlier blog:
The planning
for the trip starts atleast 6 months in advance so that hotel bookings are in
place and we don’t have surprises when we reach our destination.
Once the
plan is finalised it is carried out to the “T” unless there are some compelling
circumstances.
I use ‘Trip
Advisor ‘extensively. Speak to the Hotel people sufficiently in advance to
ensure that we know about the topography of the place where we are going to
stay. For example, I am particular about my Honda also getting a decent place
for parking. If a hotel does not have exclusive parking, I don’t go there.
We are three
members – Me, my spouse and our daughter.
We are
vegetarians and my plans will ensure that enough research is done to secure
food. My blog will not throw any light on the non vegetarian delicacies.
For me,
driving is a passion and I plan it in such a way that there is extensive
driving and bad roads are avoided even if it means extra kms.
We left on 23rd Morning- 600 AM.
( Route- NICE Corridor, NH 4 and NH 13)
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| Familiar landscape at Chitradurga- Windmills |
While
driving past Tumkur, please do not miss out beauty of coconut palms on either
side for miles together. Tumkur district is the largest producer of coconuts in
India (has since overtaken Kerala also) and we can understand why. The great
drive ends with Chitradurga and once turns left into NH 13, 2 lane normal roads.
The last 20
plus kms to Hospet is in a miserable shape wherein NH becomes NS-national
shame. Scary to see the trucks dancing on the road and those in the cars keep
their fingers crossed as to which one will turn turtle. Some of the massive
potholes were more than 2 feet deep. It is really sad to see the state of such
an important road which is the main conduit to Hampi- a place visited by
foreigners in droves. I don’t think there are any other alternatives except to
approach Hospet thro Bellary and I was not sure of that road either. My heart cried for my Honda Accord whenever it creaked on
diving into one of those craters.
Learning on day 1:
If you are one of those for whom a sumptuous breakfast is a must, please have it in one of the Kamath before you cross Tumkur. Thereafter you won’t feel like stopping your car, thanks to the beautiful road. Since the sides are fully barricaded, we could not spot any restaurants also.
Once you cross Chitradurga onto
Hospet u won’t even get a morsel of food till u reach Hospet.
The road signs are not clear at
Chitradurga for diversion to Hospet. Watch out. Otherwise you will miss the
exit towards your destination.
When asking for directions, please
specify your destination as Hosapettai and not the anglicised Hospet. Many
people think that you are asking for the direction to a hospital.
Last 20 plus kms, hold ur grit,
patience and pray. Nothing else can be done. You can fondly recall the
memories of the smooth Tumkur- Chitradurga Road experienced by you a few
minutes earlier.
Tungabhadra Dam :
Tungabhadra reservoir is before Hospet (just alongside a newly constructed tunnel on the highway).Proceed to the Dam site only if the reservoir is full.
Cars are not allowed beyond a
point near the dam. Use the shuttle services provided. Walking is not
recommended unless the weather is kind. The shuttles take you to the
Srivaikunta Guest House perched on top of a hillock overlooking the
reservoir. Brilliant view.
The Guest House itself is a
beautiful monument worth having a look at, though permission is required to
go inside the building.
It is a huge reservoir spread
for miles and definitely worth a visit, subject to the monsoon that year.
Give a miss to the park.
Hospet: ( Right turn from NH 13 onto the town road near TBS dam)
Hospet is a sad town and has
not developed with times. Does not look like the Gateway to Hampi. One more of our famed tourist destination where the
basic infrastructure is neglected. No sign boards anywhere also.
Hotel Malligi:
The only saving grace was Hotel
Malligi, where we stayed. Though the exteriors looked miserable and the
location is amidst spare parts shops, the interiors were extremely nice and
well maintained.
The staff are quite friendly
and the food served is palatable( though breakfast could have been better)
and reasonable. It has a pool also. Reasonably priced.
We were upgraded to a deluxe
room. It was quite spacious and comfortable.
Hampi World heritage Site :
Hampi is spread out over
several square kms. It was a city once and it is evident.
Weather during December was
oppressive. Better to carry necessary protection against sun. Wear sports
shoes.
Sightseeing in Hampi requires
transport for moving from one monument to another. Many options.
City bus service to Hampi is
good and frequent. Bus stand is located next to hotel Malligi. Reach the
heritage site by bus and thereafter either hire a cycle or an auto who will
take you around for a price. OR
Drive your own car with a guide
in tow. I will not strongly recommend this in view of the haphazard parking
spots.
Never drive your car to the
site without a local
person. You will be lost.
There are no good restaurants
at Hampi. Food is a challenge.
Hampi is supposed to be the
kishkinta of Ramayana. Hence full of monkeys. Be careful if you carry food while
going around the ruins.
Taking a video camera can be
expensive since the entry fee can be high.
|
Another attraction is
crossing the river using a coracle. The price is exorbitant near Virupaksha
temple. One can get a better deal near Kodanda Rama temple and Purandara Dasa
point.
A bit of news for Tamil speaking
folks. Thanks to Tirumalai Iyengar, the Tamil speaking engineer who built TB
dam, that language is widely spoken here. Infact there is a separate locality
for Tamils with their own Muruga temple. And in vandalism also , the language
finds huge space- wherever there
is graffiti, Tamil is prominent.
If feasible, please avoid taking
kids. They will find it absolutely boring and can trouble you endlessly.
Hampi- The tourist destination.
I may sound
cynical and totally different from the majority who rave about Hampi. My
apologies if I hurt someone’s sentiments.
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| Virupakshappa Temple. Only one intact. |
Hampi is
essentially “RUINS “and there are a few monuments which are partially intact.
How long u
want to spend at Hampi? It depends upon your love for sculptures and your
ability to imagine the glory and the splendour the original Hampi would have
had in it’s hey days. Most of the carvings have been vandalized and the
invaders have ensured that the destruction is mostly complete.
Among the
temples the ones to look for are Virupaksha, Vittala and Hazaari Rama. Fairly
well-preserved. Please do not miss the Kodanda Rama temple on the banks of the
river, very close to Virupaksha temple. Not part of the ruins but, worth a
visit. Rama looks imposing and handsome.
ASI has
woken up to the threats posed by encroachments and is in the process of
removing them mercilessly. The famed Hampi Bazaar is being brought back to the
original shape. You feel sad when the guide tells you that in its heydays these
bazaars were filled with merchants of spices, precious stones and gold. How
much we have degenerated?
Almost all the rocks and the monuments have graffiti liberally’ engraved by the multitudes of visitors.
Almost all the rocks and the monuments have graffiti liberally’ engraved by the multitudes of visitors.
 |
| Imposing Rocks. |
Whether you
require a guide? Hampi‘s remains are in no way closer to the intricate carvings
of Ellora, Belur, Halebid or even our Madurai. If you know the basics of Hindu Mythology
have the basic book on Hampi and follow the boards provided at vantage points,
you do not actually require a guide. I had a guide trained and Certified by ASI
and I will rate him as average only. More than that, the guide basically
expects you to imagine the yesteryears by gazing at dilapidated structures and
this gets on the nerves, after sometime.
What did I
like in Hampi? The great rock formations which stand as mute witnesses to time
that have gone by. Different shapes and sizes perched in funny angles and
spread across miles. It is an imposing sight with stones all around you. It is worth climbing either Matangi(
where Rama was supposed to have met Sukriva) or Anjanadri( where Hanuman was
supposed to have been born) hills and survey the nature’s splendour. I could
not do that. Apparently it is great to watch sunrise from Matangi hill. Those
adventurous could try that. 
For me and my family, one stretched day was
quite sufficient. Of course, this depends on individual tastes, passion and
preferences. 
I would like to reproduce here a comment from one of the tourists about the boulders at Hampi. ( courtesy- TOI)
"Hampi is a place of strange boulders. Each boulder in the ruins seems to have some messages in them, with a terrific history. These are very rare and we 've have not found such things in any part of the world we have travelled. Wonder how it would have looked when the place was under rulers......" -Sandra Hacelas.
Doroji Sloth Bear wild life sanctuary.
It is
supposed to be the only sanctuary in the world for sloth bears.
The story is
that sloth bears found in Hampi are associated with Jaambavaan of Ramayana who
was an incarnation of the Sloth Bear.
Let me be
frank- I did not go to the sanctuary. I did go through the comments of those
who had been to that place before. They were hardly positive.
The
sanctuary is supposed to have bears and like any other forests, one may sight
them if lucky.
One has to
pay and get into the forests and seat themselves at the viewpoint. Bears are
expected to come and give "darshan". I found this funny.
Additional
bit is that in the evenings, bears do come out to eat the food offered by the
forest authorities. Could not figure out as to what kind of safari is this.
Tailpiece-
The travel agent at Malligi told me "in confidence" and with an air of triumph. “
You may or may not see the bears but I have my contacts which ensures that I
sight atleast 6-7 of them whenever I went to Doroji”.
If we hire a
car, it will cost about Rs2500. It is about 45 kms away from Hospet and a visit
will take about ½ day.
Hospet to Bijapur:
( Route- NH 13)
 |
| Entrance to the park at Almatti. |
Three places of importance
enroute.
a. Confluence (kudal sangama) of Krishna and Malaprabha rivers. A pilgrim centre for Lingayats.
b. Ilkal town for the sarees
c. Almatti dam.
a. Confluence (kudal sangama) of Krishna and Malaprabha rivers. A pilgrim centre for Lingayats.
b. Ilkal town for the sarees
c. Almatti dam.
While I
skipped Kudal Sangama, my search for saree shops at Ilkal did not yield any
positive results. Probably they were tucked inside narrow lanes. It was like my
search in Udipi for a dosa joint, years ago.
Stopped at Almatti dam. Very well maintained gardens as compared to TBS but, cannot get a
grand view of the reservoir due to security reasons. Worth a stopover.
BIJAPUR:
This town became a full fledged Corporation
just a day before our visit.
Like Hospet, this is also a sad, dirty and dusty
town infested with pigs.
Hotels at Bijapur are terrible. In our part of
the world, we call them lodges. Restaurants are below par. Hygiene is
non-existent.
If you can avoid staying at Bijapur, please do
so. But, do not miss Gol Gumbaz.
Autos and share auto services in addition to the tongas . They
are fairly convenient and post bargaining fairly reasonable. Saw quite a few
well maintained transport buses also.
Bijapur is supposed to be famous for raisins
though I did not find much evidence.
Tourism literature talks
about 10 different monuments to be visited at Bijapur. I am quite sceptical
about that number. I decided to see only the top 2 attractions.
I stayed at Pearl rated by
Trip Advisor as the number ONE. I
understand it is a comparative rating for the hotels (lodges!) at Bijapur.
GOL
GUMBAZ:
Approach of Bijapur is heralded by the
visibility of Gol Gumbaz from a distance.
I found this
monument awesome and amazing. Unlike Hampi, gives a leeway for you to visualize
the grandeur. The ceiling must be about 250 ft from the ground level and the
huge place has no pillars.
Fortunately,
ASI has secured the compound around the monument and has laid out a nice
garden. Refreshing environs, in otherwise dusty surroundings.
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| Gol Gumbaz |
It involves climbing 7
stories through narrow and steep staircases. Not for the old and infirm.
The sad part is that the monument is totally
disfigured by graffiti.
In the seventh floor, under
the dome, facing the crypt below, most of the visitors would like to confirm
the acoustical capabilities of the monument. They shout wanting to listen to the ‘famed “echo system
leading to high decibel cacophony and splitting head ache. In the process we
denigrate ourselves as a nation, desecrate our so called culture and probably
damage the monument itself. Even
the passage through the staircase is accompanied by jostles and pushes.
Gol Gumbaz may not be as
beautiful as Taj Mahal, but, it is a great monument and needs to be protected
with the same vigour. Hampi was damaged by warlords and encroachers and Gumbaz
is being brought down by the 21st century Indians who are the only
ones who can speak about IT and Culture in the same breath!!!
I was bitter when I walked
out of the monument and bid goodbye. But, believe me, it is worth a visit. Our
children must see this place, how our forefathers built something before the
computer era. I really do not know as to how long people will be allowed to get
inside this place. Like the famous Vittala temple at Hampi which has musical
pillars and thanks to continuous misuse, barred for visitors.
There is a museum in front of
Gumbaz. Worth a visit.
IBRAHIM ROZA:
Like the Gumbaz, this is also
a tomb. Fairly well maintained.
The monument consists of 2
domed similar structures protected all around by compound walls and a garden.
The one which has the grave
of Adil Shahi apparently influenced Shah Jehan to build Taj. The method of
inscribing Arabic verses on the doorways and the walls confirm that.
Definitely worth a visit.
Locals also mentioned about
visiting Bara khaman. I gave it a miss since wanted to get away from the dusty
town. Stayed for the night at Pearl.
Visited LBS Market. Can be
given a miss. Nothing spectacular.
Bijapur-
Gond Village (Dandeli).
(Route- NH 218, SH 28, Haliyal, Dandeli- Gund)
Left Bijapur at 6 AM. The hotel does not have
facilities for brewing our own cuppa in the room and that the tea service would
start at 7 AM!!!!
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| Sunrise at Almatti- from the Krishna bridge |
Two lane NH was well paved but had multiple
speed breakers without any warning boards.
Do stop the car on the bridge across Almatti
reservoir. I was fortunate enough to see the sunrise and it was breath taking.
You have to wait till Dharwad for a decent
breakfast.
From there till Gund the route is quite scenic.
Drive slow and enjoy. The forests are part of DATR- Dandeli Anshi Tiger Reserve.
The road is quite patchy from Dharwad till Gund
and definitely not as bad as Chitradurga- Hospet section. The road signs are
not useful. Our thanks to Hegde of
Gund, who gave us the
directions. The directions to be
ideally taken at Dandeli itself since mobile signals vanish once u enter the forest
area.
Gund
Village, Dandeli Amara and Hegdes:
Without
any doubt, Gund was the highlight of my trip this year.
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| Our Cottage at Gund Village. |
I discovered Gund through Trip Advisor.
You will be surprised to see a 100 % rating
given by all the visitors to the Dandeli Amara home stay.
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| Bon Fire at Gund |
Roads to Gund are shut at 6 PM by the forest
dept to protect the wild life from getting killed by moving traffic.
Little bit about Amara foundation
which runs the Dandeli Amara resorts. Owned by Ramachandra Hegde with his wife
Mangala Hegde as his partner. A self made man who belongs to Gund village and
basically a farmer. Tried his luck with several businesses before zeroing in on
this resort. His son Ajit is doing his hotel mgt and will soon be joining him.
Amara stands for Ajit, Mangala and Ramachandra.
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| With Ramachandra Hegde |
Dandeli Amara offers 5 cottages and a few tents
as basic accommodation. No AC, swimming pool, fridge, coffee maker or similar exotic stuff all creature
comforts in place. Very very ordinary as you look at it, as a resort.
What then is so special about
Dandeli Amara?
a. Customer Service at its best- simple native village kind of approach where Aditi is really a Deva. b. food, personally cooked by Mrs Hegde- the word “Divine” is an understatement.
a. Customer Service at its best- simple native village kind of approach where Aditi is really a Deva. b. food, personally cooked by Mrs Hegde- the word “Divine” is an understatement.
Hegde and his team- they are
either his relatives or from nearby villages are there to meet your needs at
any point of time. There is no need to make a call to room service (Infact they
don’t have any phones inside) and await the service after quite a bit of time
laden with an artificial smile and not knowing what exactly the steward has
brought! Hegde may be the boss but he is also a team member delivering coffee
or anything whenever you ask for it. Hegde comes and briefs about Dandeli Amara
and the local sightseeing what we could do. He also provides a guide from his
team. Hegde does not give any hyperboles or over promises, but, delivers much
more than what we can even imagine.
Not known to
many, this place has found an angel in Gururaj Deshpande of Sycamore fame, for
social entrepreneurship. A foundation called NAVODYAMI 2011 initiated by Gururaj
has incubated this venture.
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| With Mangala Hegde |
It is not
only the food; please do not forget to buy homemade items that are for sale.
Honey and ghee are a MUST.
Non
vegetarians are not going to like it a bit. The food served is purely
vegetarian only. And it is essentially Kannada food- Neerdosa, Kottai Idly,
Kadubu, Akkaravadisal etc.
No internet,
No cable TV and No newspapers. And a kind of silence prevails, thanks to the
absence of cicadas and modern gadgets. It is absolute bliss.
During the momentary
power cuts in the night, we had the privilege of watching a starlit sky in
total darkness. Brilliant.
ULAVI:
 |
| Trek to see Ulavi Caves. |
A quiet village and becomes
busy in Feb every year due to a local temple festival.
Go further for about 2 kms
and park the car at the edge of the forest.
 |
| Enroute to Ulavi Caves. |
The trek starts from here towards the famous Ulavi caves. Trekking paths are well formed and hence walking is not an issue. One way is about 2 kms. There are no shops or water vends enroute. if possible carry water with you though it adds to the weight.
 |
| Decided to become a Tarzan. |
Please carry a torch since the caves are pitch dark and one can get hurt by the protruding formations. The caves are large enough to walk through. Not the crawling types.
We were fortunate to reach the forests by around 830 AM and hence during the entire trek deep inside the forest we were along without any disturbances.
It is quite downhill towards
the caves . That implies that the return trip is not easy. Not
recommended for old and infirm.Watch out for the following during the trek. a. Flora and Fauna. Some exotic flowers and plants. b. Delicately formed rock formations (you are reminded of Indiana Jones Movies). c. Since it is a reserved forest, the trees that have fallen down etc are left to disintegrate. Look at the flora and fauna that thrive on those dead trees. Watch for the leader ants building nests. d. Birds- you may be lucky to spot some exotic birds like hornbills etc. E. Hear the rustles among the leaves amidst pin drop silence. It is eerie. May be a snake or a Languor monkey which are found in plenty.
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| Leader Ants - nest |
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| Amazing and imposing rocks of Ulavi |
Cave no 1
Where Akkamahadevi and
Basavanna have done penance before attaining Samadhi. 2 shivalingams are there.
The climb downhill becomes
steeper post this cave and there are about 150 steps also.
Cave no 2:
 |
| Naturally formed Sivalingam |
SYNTHERI ROCKS:
.Different hues of colour on its face as neatly painted stripes.Kaneri River flows below. There is also a mini cascade at its base well buffeted by tunnels, adding to the overall scenic beauty.t is a place where nature overawes you – akin to the stones of Hampi. And the thick vegetation around adds to its mystique.Comes under the forest dept and hence has fixed timings for ingress and egress.
Comes under the forest dept
and hence has fixed timings for ingress and egress.
Definitely worth a visit.
By the time we completed
admiring Syntheri, our ever cheerful guide, Hegde (a cousin of the owner Hegde)
gently reminded us of the lunch waiting at the home stay and we immediately
returned to partake one more round of heavenly food.
Dandeli is only known for
river rafting. We did not attempt since the slots were booked already and
obviously crowded.
GUND TO KARWAR.
( SH 95)
Probably the best maintained
state highway.
One of the scenic ones I have
ever driven on. We stopped enroute to admire the jungle streams and the natural
vegetation around.
We Reached Karwar around
lunch time. Stayed at Sterling Resorts.
Karwar:
 |
| Lovely canopy of Karwar as seen from my room |
It is a place of natural
beauty. Especially the point where River Kali joins the sea.
The bridge near the mouth of
the river is an excellent place to watch sunrise and sunset, enjoy the breeze
from the sea and the hills and have a peaceful walk.
Much of the beauty is now
taken away by the Indian navy which has occupied the prime slots on the coast.
 |
| Kali is humongous |
Sterling resorts is a good
property, we had a comfortable stay. It is not close to the beach, though. But,
walking distance from the Bridge.
 |
| Sunset at RT Beach. |
 |
| RT Beach. |
There is no shopping worth
its name at Karwar except picking up some cashews and kokum etc.
Karwar’s attraction, apart
from Kali, lies in its kurumgad island. More about it later.
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| Sunrise over Kali. |
 |
| Kali meets the sea |
GOA:
Karwar is about 20 kms away
from Goa and hence easy to drive up.
 |
| View from Cobe-de-Rama |
Thanks to the guidance from
Prasanna, handsome husband of Savitha Muppalla (who was my colleague in Easycall
during 1996-98) we decided to drive through the small villages of that state.
I was surprised by the
quality of the state highways in Goa and the wonderful scenic routes in South
Goa.
 |
| Verka- beautiful |
Continued our drive thru the
narrow rural roads and spent some time at Verka Beach. A great beach though the
shacks are spoiling the natural beauty.
It is sad that Goan beaches
have been taken over by the foreigners who are virtually calling the shots.
Time has come to reclaim our country and do things in line with our Culture and
ethos.
Had lunch at Vasco- a cute
town. Spent some good time with our friends. Thanks Prasanna and Savitha – for
making this day a memorable one.
Returned to Karwar after
filling up the tank. As mentioned, gas is 20 bucks cheaper per litre.
Karwar/Kurumgad:
Many are under the impression
that Devbagh resorts, managed by jungle Lodges is an island. It is not so.
 |
| Waiting for the boat to arrive. Choppy waters |
An island with thick
vegetation and a temple which attracts droves of pilgrims once in a year.
 |
| Sea welcoming Kali |
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| Lovely foliage at Kurumgad. |
There is some amount of
trekking also. We were fortunate enough to see a 4 ft snake ambling across our
path into the dry leaves.
 |
| After a speedboat ride. |
Return journey was awesome as
we were piloted through a surging sea lunging towards a depleted kali river
hitting against the emerging sand bars.  |
| Relaxing after a "tiresome" trek at Kurumgad plus speed boating. |
We welcomed the new Year at
Karwar
The last Day:
We Left Karwar at 6.30 am.
Decided to take the longer
NH-63 and NH-4 combination since the roads were reportedly good. ( I have done
Hubli- Bangalore last year on
NH-4)
NH 63 is brilliant.
NH 63 is brilliant.
Involved an additional 60 kms
but it was worth it since the alternative was thro state highways from Yellapur
with its numerous speed breakers.
Covered 600 kms in 8 hours. I
was HAPPY.
Minutest details and Great planning is what i can summarize abt your trip Sir ! Things to learn here as well !
ReplyDeleteThanks Prem. To avoid missing details, I was recording the progress of our trip on a daily basis. that helped.
DeleteWell done Kumar. Blogging is a good habit and it helps many.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ramki. It encourages me to capture the moments whenever I go out.
Delete